I'm Peace Corps Volunteer
Not a Western Backpacker
The Currents Within Can Gio
“Tôi sẽ là giáo viên tiếng Anh, tôi không phải Tây ba lô” – This is a phrase I like to share with Vietnamese people when they ask me what I’m doing here in Viet Nam. Tây ba lô – “western backpacker” – has a really negative connotation here. Schools are looking for English teachers to meet their language proficiency goals, and unfortunately, these “Tây ba lô” figures have become the primary association of native English speakers coming to teach in Viet Nam. They go backpacking, teaching English for a short period of time to make money, repeating the process at different schools, with little regard for building a connection with students or understanding the local culture. Promoting peace and friendship through service is the backbone of the Peace Corps, and for many community members who ask what I’m doing here, I humorously reassure them with my short phrase. It always brings laughter. My little saying isn’t just a joke to distinguish myself from the stereotype of English teachers – it’s a reminder that my mission is bigger than the classroom. It’s about cultural exchange and the connections I’m forging.
I can proudly say I’m improving in volleyball and badminton, both popular pastimes among the students at my school. I’ve even started trash talking in Vietnamese. After spiking the ball or making an unexpected play, I say “Xong chưa?” – meaning "are you done yet?" – and they get a kick out of it. I really enjoy speaking with the students after school. It gives us both a chance to sharpen our language skills. I help them with English, and they help me with Vietnamese. I’m still learning how deeply culture and language are intertwined, how old sayings reflect ingrained cultural values, and how language itself is fundamental to preserving culture. Today, one of my more English-proficient students asked me, “How does it feel to be across the world in a place where you can’t be fully understood?” It was a loaded question, one I hadn't really thought about deeply before. My first instinct was to joke, “I don’t think I’ll ever be fully understood,” but the more I thought about it, the more I realized it’s true – there are daily challenges I face that I’ll continue to face. “I’ve been met with warmth, and with the little Vietnamese I know, I can still communicate. I think I’m seen.” “Đồng bào,” he replied. “What does that mean?” I asked. “Same fetus.” I guess the best translation in English would be “cut from the same cloth,” but here it’s much more spiritual. “We share the same mother,” he explained. “It’s a way of saying we’re all human, and we care for each other.” This phrase really stuck with me today. We’ve all stumbled into this gift of life, and if we start seeing that in one another, maybe we’d feel less distant.
Swearing In
When you swear into the Peace Corps, you officially mark the beginning of your service. Our ceremony took place at the ambassador’s residence, where we wore ao dai (the traditional Vietnamese gown). We listened to speeches from the Vietnamese Peace Corps staff, the country director, and the ambassador. The overarching theme was to make the most of this experience, remember our mission, and take every opportunity to better understand Vietnamese culture. True to Vietnamese tradition, songs were sung! First, it was the Vietnamese national anthem, sung by two high school girls, followed by the American national anthem, sung by Scott – a volunteer one year into service – and me! Oh god, I was nervous, but thankfully Scott sings in a church choir, and his voice dominated the microphone. I was honored to be part of it.
After the ceremony, we headed to the backyard of the residence to eat and mingle before our departure the next morning. There were steaks – not just the thin slices in phở, but actual New York strips. I may have definitely gone over my allotment on those, but they were just so delicious.
Later that evening, we went out to dinner to celebrate the end of pre-service training, to eat, drink, and soak in our last night in Hanoi (at least for a while). We ended up at the rooftop bar called The Library, which was the same place we visited on our first night in Hanoi. We shared stories, sang songs, and stayed up way too late.
Ha Long Bay
One of the highlights for me was going to Ha Long Bay for the day. We took a boat tour to the towering caves that stick out of the bay like natural cathedrals – a labyrinth of beauty. We tested out the echoes in the caves, and I found myself imagining what it must have been like for someone many years ago, rowing to these islands and discovering these wonders.
Ha Long Bay also has a long stretch of beach, which meant I had to swim in the water! It was a little chilly, but like all cold plunges, it was a reset for both mind and body – pure tranquility and serenity. We walked along the beach, throwing bamboo sticks like javelins. As Paige and I were picking up seashells, she shared wisdom from her mother: “Always live near a body of water; the flow reminds you that life is ever-moving, while the stillness of calm waters gently encourages you to slow down and find peace.”
The Beginning of Two Years
I’ve officially moved into my site in Can Gio. Arriving at the port to board my ferry was something I’d been looking forward to ever since returning to Hanoi after my site visit. The island is windy, full of trees, and the weather is a dream. In the evenings, I play Petanque with a group of men and the gym teacher at my school. We play on an open gravel lot and burn cardboard around us to keep the bugs away. So far, I have more free time than I did during training. I’ve been able to catch up on my favorite podcast series – MartyrMade. The one I’m currently tuning into is ‘Whose America’, which explores the history of Appalachian company towns in West Virginia and how this fascinating chapter of American history is often overlooked. I’ve also gotten back into my running routine and even carved out a space in the gym for my mobility sessions. I have a bookshelf now, and my first read is Vietnam’s Anti-U.S. Resistance War – The Journey to the Final Victory.
"The longer I live, the more I realize the impact of attitude on life. Attitude, to me, is more important than facts. It is more important than the past, than education, than money, than circumstances, than failures, than successes, than what other people think or say or do. It is more important than appearance, giftedness, or skill. It will make or break a company...a church...a home. The remarkable thing is we have a choice every day regarding the attitude we will embrace for that day." – Charles R. Swindoll
Songs:
Rivers of Babylon – Boney M
Love Lockdown – Kanye West
Sailor Song – Gigi Perez
APT. – ROSE, Bruno Mars
Bonus pics:
Thanks for reading :)
We still need to help you get a bike Will 👀